Design Guide

We accept AI, BMP, EPS, GIF, JPEG, JPG, PDF, PNG, SVG, TIF, TIFF, WEBP files up to 100 MB. The full list breaks into two camps:

• Vector (AI, EPS, PDF, SVG) — preferred. These scale to any size without losing quality. Almost every logo a designer ever made for you exists somewhere as a vector file; ask them for it.
• Raster (BMP, GIF, JPEG, JPG, PNG, TIF, TIFF, WEBP) — works fine when the resolution is high enough. See the next section.

For raster files (PNG, JPG, etc.), the rule is 300 DPI at the print size. If your logo is going to print at 12″ wide, your file needs to be at least 3600 pixels wide. Going lower means visible pixelation on the finished garment — we’ll usually catch it and flag the job before printing, but it costs a day or two of back and forth.

Don’t enlarge a small filein Photoshop and send the upscaled version. It looks bigger but it’s still the same number of pixels, and the print will be blurry. If you only have a small logo, send it to us — we can sometimes trace it back to vector (may carry a fee depending on complexity).

Every product page lists which placements are available for that specific garment. Here’s the full reference of what fits where, straight from our print specs:

Shirts, polos, hoodies, vests

Hats

Dimensions are the maximum printable area. You don’t need to fill the whole box — a small left-chest logo at 3″ × 3″ still looks great inside the 4″ × 4″ safe area.

• Outline your fontsbefore exporting. Otherwise your designer’s fancy font won’t render the same on our end and the printer will substitute something close-ish.
• Embed imagesrather than linking. If your AI or EPS file references an external image, that image won’t come along when you upload.
• Use named or spot colorswhen you need a specific shade. Pantone references are best for screen print; describe the color in special instructions if you can’t match it.

• Transparent background (PNG with alpha channel) is ideal when the logo will sit on a dark or colored garment. Otherwise we have to cut out the white box around your logo, which costs time and sometimes accuracy.
• Don’t send screenshots. A screenshot of your logo on a website is too low-res to print. Go back to the source file.
• JPG compression artifacts (those fuzzy halos near sharp edges) get worse the bigger we print. Use PNG for line art and logos with sharp edges; JPG is fine for photographic content.

• Embroidery— best for hats, polos, jackets, and small chest logos. Very fine lines and tight detail don’t stitch well; logos with 4 colors or fewer reproduce best.
• Screen print— best for shirts at higher volume. Costs scale with number of colors; flat solid-color logos work great. Photographic or gradient logos don’t reproduce well.
• DTG (direct-to-garment) — best for full-color logos and small runs. Looks like an inkjet print on fabric. Works best on light garments; dark garments need a white underbase that softens fine detail.

• Sending a logo with a white background when the garment is dark. Send PNG with transparency, or tell us the garment color.
• Sending a Word document, PowerPoint, or Google Slides export. Those aren’t print files. Go to the source.
• Forgetting to convert RGB to CMYK for screen print. We can convert, but colors may shift slightly — sending CMYK lets you control the exact values.
• Designing white-on-white or near-invisible color combinations. Looks fine on a monitor; disappears on the garment.